Please refer to the parts guide here for clarification on parts mentioned.

Aftermarket Accessories

WE-Tech Colt Trademarked Lower Receiver Swap
Gun Shop Specialized Accessories, bolt carrier #34 Roller Bearing.

Aftermarket Accessories Compatibility List. "Real versus Airsoft".

A list of exactly which "real steel" accessories is compatible with the WE could go on forever. There are literally THOUSANDS of accessories for the Armalite family. Rather than a dense, difficult to read, collection of manufacturers part numbers, it is best to say that just about >all< real steel accessories will work with the WE M4. This includes grips, RAS/RIS (Rail systems), stocks (milspec), mounts, et al.

It is important to differentiate "parts" from "accessories".

Upper and lower receivers, muzzles or flash hiders, barrels, charging handles, trigger group parts, bolt carrier, etc., - are parts. Generally speaking, WE parts are NOT interchangeable with parts from the real weapon. (98% so)

However, certain small parts such as "Real Steel" ejection port doors, front gas blocks, receiver end plates, "fancy" charging handles, barrel nuts and delta ring assemblies, forward assist knobs, can be made to work with the WE M4 - or simply work right out of the box.

Accessories are any item that can be added to the basic gun. If you think in terms of "Magpul accessories" you will get a quick sense of what accessories are.

Airsoft accessories, likewise, will work with the WE M4. The only "snag" you may (or may not) encounter is making airsoft "Free floating RIS units" work with the WE. The main reason is the different barrel nuts. The WE uses a real steel thread pitch and outer diameter. Real barrel nuts from real weapons manufacturers such as Knights Armament, Larue, and DD thread right on.

Alternatively, as many have discovered or reported, some airsoft barrel nuts (no matter which brand) fit tightly on the WE upper receiver threads. All have added that the thread pitch seems right or similar, its just a different "thread height" causing the "too tight" situation.

We have been able to use several different airsoft barrel nuts on the WE's, its just that some will thread on tightly.

If you decide to do the following, no worries, as the barrel nut threads will give out before the upper receiver threads of your WE.

Just thread the airsoft barrel nut on - thread until it becomes tight. Then advance a bit more. Back off the nut a half turn to a full turn, then thread it on again. Advancing past your last stop point.

Do this until you have the nut fully threaded on.

What you are essentially doing is chasing the threads - or making the two parts "marry". You aren't really rethreading since the thread is correct, its just the thread heights are different.

The next time you disassemble the barrel nut, you will see that the threads on both pieces are intact. Its just that the threads on the inside of the barrel nut will be "flattened" somewhat.

Aside from the potential barrell nut issue, you may also encounter an issue fitting the upper RIS half around the WE outer barrel. The WE uses stout, real steel, outer dimensions on the outer barrel. Some (but not all) RIS units intended for skinny toy barrels may need dremeling to fit around it.

This problem is really no different than the old days of getting MARUI RIS units to fit "one piece outer barrels". You needed to dremel the upper RIS to accomodate the thicker barrel.

So, that said, just about any free floating RIS - real steel or airsoft - can be made to work with your WE. Some will be easier to install, but none will be difficult.

This section is a work in progress. We intend to add a users gallery of "modded" guns belonging to our users and forum members. It is much easier to see (rather than read) what can be done to the WE M4. More to come.

DIY Improvements/Mods

Changing the Inner Barrel


Fixing the "gas face" problem


  • RTV Ultra Black Gasket Maker (Stocked at Walmart or an autoparts store)
  • Plastic knife
  • Exacto knife
  • Vaseline
  1. Start out by removing the upper from the lower
  2. Remove the charging handle and bolt carrier from the upper
  3. Thouroghly clean the charging handle and the rear, semi-circle portion of the upper
  4. Smeer a little Vaseline/thin grease around the edge of the semi-circle on the upper that faces the charging handle
  5. Insert the charging handle partially into the upper
  6. Lay a thin bead of RTV onto the upper portion of the charging handle where it meets the upper
  7. Close the CH all the way
  8. Use the plastic knife to spread the RTV evenly in the gap between the upper and the charging handle
  9. If there is any RTV that is not where it is supposed to be, you can remove it by scraping it off with the plastic knife
  10. Let the RTV cure for 24 hours. Do not move the charging handle during this time
  11. After curing, take your Exacto knife and run it around the edge of the face of the semi-circle on the upper. This will detach any RTV that the Vaseline did not deter from sticking
  12. Remove charging handle carefully, cutting any RTV that may have stuck to the upper.
  13. Remove charging handle entirely and clean up any excess RTV from the charging handle and upper with the plastic and exacto knives.
  14. Reassemble and test fire

This should create a seal between the gap of the upper and the charging handle deterring any excess blow-by from coming out of it and hitting you in the face. I have found that it significantly reduces/eliminates the blow-by on my rifle.

An alternative to using RTV would be to drill a port in the charging handle so that it will become the path of least resistance for the blow-by gas. I have not performed this mod yet but will shortly and report back whether or not it is more, less, or equally effective as the RTV seal. See picture for clarification:

Using a "Real Steel" charging handle.

As a WE M4 owner, you will discover that one part breaks pretty quickly. The charging handle.

At this time, there is no aftermarket handle available. Rather than continuing to buy (and break) stock "WE handles", a real charging handle may be substituted.

It is not a direct swap however.

As you can see below, there is a small difference which will affect its usefulness in the gun. The stock WE handle drops down a bit further at the hooked end than a real charging handle.


What can be done is to simply press a 3/32 roll pin into the real steel charging handle. The drill bit size is the same - 3/32 - and it must be drilled as far back to the edge as possible to mimic the stock handle's casting.


If the roll pin is not used, the real steel charging handle will not "grab" the bolt carrier at the correct place. It will simply glide right over the recess it is supposed to "grab", and smack squarely into the next thing in its path - the casting for the roller bearing.

Upon return, the charging handle will not be pulled all the way into the receiver. You will have to push it back in the last 3/4".

This simple mod will allow the R/S part to function as good and better than the stock WE handle.

One last look at the modded R/S handle vs. the stock WE part. Better (clearer) photos will be posted soon.

Semi-only conversion for the AWSS M4/M16 models

Some people may want to modify their rifles to Semi-Automatic fire only, as - for example - fully automatic Guns are banned by law in Germany. So here's how to do it.

  1. Remove the pistol grip from the lower receiver. To do this, remove the philips head screw (#80) holding the pistol grip to the lower receiver. It is located inside the grip. Once you have removed the screw and slide the grip off, you notice the fire selector detent and spring. If you don't see the fire select detent, it is probably still in the lower receiver. To get it out, tap the receiver and it should fall out.
  2. With the fire selector in semi, cock the hammer until it locks back. Remove the fire selector by pushing it from the right side of the rifle while at the same time turning it from the auto and semi positions. It may help to pull the sear (#48) back while you are doing this.
  3. Now you have to cut off and file the nub on the new fireselector shown in the picture below. You really have to work carefully and file it flat since only a small bump is needed to make the gun fire in full auto.
You may also see a video showing the procedure here:

Modifying the Fireselector for Semi only

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